Cementerio del Norte

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Philippines cemetery provides Manila’s poor a place to live among the dead

Thousands of families have made city graveyard their home as authorities grapple with rising population and housing shortage

A child walks on a makeshift bridge between shanty homes built on top of banks of tombs inside the north Manila cemetery. Photograph: Noel Celis/AFP/Getty Images

Every morning, Alberto Lagarda Evangelista, 71, leaves the two-storey, lemon-yellow home he has lived in for the past decade and walks to work at the cemetery next door. As a caretaker of about 20 graves, Evangelista earns just 20,000 pesos (£315) a year, a sum so small that he must share his house with seven other people – all of whom are dead.

Evangelista lives and works in the Cementerio del Norte, a sprawling, 54-hectare green space in north Manila that is also home to some 1,000 other families. Here in the Philippines‘ largest public graveyard, century-old tombs have been converted into stalls selling sachets of shampoo and instant noodles, clothes lines are strung between crosses and car batteries power radios, karaoke machines and television sets. Evangelista’s home is a mausoleum housing eight graves. The breezy second storey where the owners pay their annual respects to the dead doubles as his bedroom. “Just look at my view,” he says, pointing his cigarette out towards the grave-studded horizon.

Today, the shady lanes are busy with the sundry activities of any normal neighbourhood: a group of boys plays basketball; adults while away the afternoon heat with sodas and playing cards; couples canoodle atop the graves that double as their beds; and women prepare chicken adobo in their mausoleum cafes.

The cemetery’s inhabitants rank among the poorest of the poor in Manila, a capital where roughly 43% of the city’s 13 million residents live in informal settlements like this one, according to a 2011 Asian Development Bank report. This Roman Catholic country has one of Asia’s fastest growing populations and a massive housing shortage – meaning that the urban poor must usually find, build or cobble together housing anywhere there is space: under bridges, along highways, in alleys, perched atop flood channels, or even among the dead.

No one knows exactly when the cemetery became a living village. But many of Manila North’s 6,000-odd residents were born here and expect to spend their whole lives here. Gravedigger Steve Esbacos, 52, a muscular man with blue-rimmed eyes, was born and raised in the same mausoleum where he now raises his own four children. “Sometimes I don’t like living here, because it’s dirty and it smells bad,” he says, before admitting that he’s never wanted to live anywhere else. “My father is buried just over there and I don’t know where else I’d go.”

Ramil and Josephine Raviz run a stall selling instant noodles and peanuts to residents and mourners. They earn enough money to send their 10-year-old daughter to school, and say they prefer life here to the possibilities “outside” the cemetery’s four walls.

“When I first came to Norte 30 years ago, there weren’t so many families here – it was quiet and peaceful and safe, very different to the outside slums in Manila,” says Ramil, 46, in his mausoleum housing a fan, fridge, rocking chair, microwave, blankets and mattresses, and six graves. “But once people realised they could work here and live here for free, they moved in.”

The cemetery hasn’t retained that peaceful aura. Robberies and muggings are common, residents admit, with gangs said to be working different corners of the sprawling greenery.


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Literally the living among the dead




Myths are strange – they become real

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Most of you will have seen the Lord of the Rings trilogy and will fondly remember the hobbits, in particular Bilbo Baggins. Do you remember his house? Those of you who don’t should seriously think about getting some kultcha!

Bilbo Baggin's House

Small place, round front door, etc.

Well in Manila, the capital of the Philippines there is a bar called The Hobbit House.

Apparently, it is world famous, except that I’ve never heard of it before this morning.

Which is strange because famous implies well-known, doesn’t it?

So, a quick google…

The Hobbit House Bar

Yup, it’s there all right. Terrible photo, but when one is stealing photos from the internet, beggars can’t be choosers. Image credit… cityseekr


Philippines’ little people thinking big

People of small stature in Manila, the capital of the Philippines, have ambitions to build a new community – of small houses – on a greenfield site. It’s an unusual idea, but they are completely serious and determined to succeed.

Inspired by the books of JRR Tolkien, the Hobbit House is one of Manila’s best-known bars. There are illustrations from the Lord of the Rings on the wall, and you enter through a round wooden door, just as if you were arriving at Bilbo Baggins’ house.

But the illusion doesn’t stop there – the waiters are all under 4ft (1.2m) tall.

“Hobbit House is very unique – we only recruit little people,” says the proud manager, Pidoy Fetalino, 3ft 6in tall, who has been working at the bar for more than 30 years.

While some might question how politically correct it is, the reality is that a job at the Hobbit House is undoubtedly one of the best the staff can get.

The Philippines doesn’t provide much, if any, state support, and many jobs have height restrictions, making a market which is already competitive due to high unemployment even tougher.

The waiters say that most of their friends, if they have jobs at all, work in the entertainment industry – as boxers, bit-part actors or even as human cannonballs.

One said his friend was paid half what other employees were paid just because he was short.

Source: BBC News Read more


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